DESIGNER Q+A | BY QIANNA SMITH
Photo by Fernando Colon
Christian
Siriano
'I am still learning'
Upon opening the door of Christian Siriano's midtown studio, there is an air of calmness and maturity that instantly greets us. This is not the 'so fierce’ make shift establishment one
might expect from a new twenty-something designer. This is the fashion house of Siriano. It would be a mistake to think that
‘Project Runway’ made Siriano, when it simply made
him a household name.

“I definitely think ‘Project Runway’ should never be considered as a negative, or a bad thing. Some days, I do hate it, because people lose sight about the true premise of the
show,” says the Annapolis, Maryland native, who graduated from the American InterContinental University in London and studied under
Vivienne Westwood and the late Alexander
McQueen
. “At the end of the day, people have to remember that ‘Runway’ is a talent-based show of creative people making clothes every day, and that everybody has to find their
way presenting or launching their brand in this business.”

Eight collections into his debut at
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week New York, Siriano is still finding his stepping and admits that he is still learning. Clearly, the learning curve has not
affected his ability to sell, with luxury department stores like
Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue stocking their shelves with the Christian Siriano collection. He continues to
be
Payless' top-selling designer collaboration ever, producing six shoe and accessory collections a year for the cheap and chic retailer. Siriano is also gearing up to release a
limited edition bridal collaboration with
Nordstrom.

What is the most rewarding aspect of running his thriving label? “When it’s your business, your brand and your vision, it means something. Imagine creating a dress from scratch
with your own money, and it sells, then you have this great customer wearing your clothes, and you know that you and your team are the only ones that made that happen. It’s a
long process designing clothes, so when they actually sell, it is really rewarding.”
Despite Siriano’s market success and entrepreneurial knack, industry insiders
often challenge his credibility. The
Council of Fashion Designers of America
(CFDA) passed on his application for membership last year, even though
projected revenues for his namesake collection are reported to be a million plus.  

“Look at
Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen, The Row was nominated for [the
CFDA’s] womenswear designer of the year. They were teen actors. Their
collection is beautiful, and
it’s okay for designers to come from different
places and backgrounds. Fashion is infused in our lives, and it would be
impractical to alienate anyone,”
says Siriano, who admits that the obstacles
he faces are far from shocking to him, but more frustrating when his collection
is hanging next to many other CFDA members.

“Designers like
Isaac Mizrahi and Michael Kors are big personalities and have
done so many different projects. Obviously, they have had an up and down
business. I hope to have somewhat of a successful business,” he says, “but it
could go up and down as well. I just have to stay focused on what works for
me, and that’s what I am starting to learn.”

Not surprisingly, Siriano took some big risks, as he did launch his line at the
mere age of 20. “What is hard is that ‘Project Runway’ was such a one-minded
place because the point was to impress people with excitement, to be the most
creative you could be. Since I showed my first collection, p
eople have always
remembered me for the big exuberant pieces
,” adds Siriano. “From my first
to the most recent fall 2012 collection, I have always shown great skirts, blouses
and trousers.
The separates are hidden with the excitement for the over-
the-top things
, which is a bit frustrating sometimes. You have to find that
balance, and I think what we are doing now is finding a good balance between
both.”

Six years later, it is clear that the trial and error evolution of Siriano’s creative
process has resulted in a more streamlined aesthetic. Inspired by the 1930s film  
‘The Vampire Bat', Siriano’s fall/winter 2012 collection was his darkest and
edgiest presentation. The intricate fabric treatments and sharp tailoring showed
his range and ability to produce equally strong separates and evening wearing.
“We have done so many things that I look back on and say, I can’t believe
we did that, why did we do that,”
sighs Siriano. “But I’m glad we did, because
in this business, it just takes time and practice. You grow and evolve based on
what your customers want, what the women are asking for, what people are
responding to more.”
“We have
done so
many things
that I look
back on and
say, I can’t
believe we
did that,
why did we
do that. But
I’m glad we
did, because
in this
business, it
just takes
time and
practice."
As Siriano moves to become a lifestyle brand with fragrance and home collections in the works, he is determined to continue producing lines that excite the market. “As a new
brand, you only have one opportunity to prove to retailers that your collection is quality,” says Siriano, which is why he opts to manufacture in New York. “
Making clothes in
New York allows me to control the process
. In my workroom, I have young designers making things because I think it is important to create local jobs for new talent. Even if we
outsource fabrications to Italy, I still go through their New York rep.”

With just 4 months to New York Fashion Week spring/summer 2013 season, what will Siriano be planning to send down the catwalk? “I attended the
American Ballet Theatre's
Annual Spring Gala
, and it was really amazing. I have been interested in ballet and performances, so I think that might come alive in some way. I am not sure how fully
because we are still developing ideas for spring 13, but I think you will see some type of a romantic collection. This last fall collection was very strong and dark. Each season I like
to mix it up, it keeps things fun.”

Visit Fashion Q+A's Facebook page for more behind the scene photos of our interview with Christian Siriano. Go inside the studio here.
It is going to be a very busy
working summer for Siriano, so
instead of jet setting to a tropical
destination, he’s
planning for a
long weekend in Pawling, New
York.
“It’s an hour outside the
city. It’s not the Hamptons, it’s
not beach front, but a very close
friend has a large private estate
there on a lake. It will literally be
me and ten friends, on 500 acres
and it’s amazing,” says Siriano
about his summer vacation plans.
“There are so many girls that I love, but the last few seasons, I have opened and closed
my show with
Anna Schilling (left). She is one of those girls with a great body, face
and has a beautiful walk. Anna is also a close friend. I also love growing with new
talent.
Sessilee Lopez (right) and I worked together on ‘Project Runway’ and she was
in my shows for a bunch of seasons.
Selita Ebanks opened my first runway show
and she’s sort of a social muse to wear the clothes out and about.”
Wondering where you would find Siriano dining and hanging out in New York?
“I go to restaurants like
Abe & Arthurs (left), Buddakan and Lavo (right),” says
Siriano, who insists that he would much rather chill at home and shop for furniture
when he gets some time off.