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Don't Be Wary of the Up and Coming Designers. Trust Us - The New Kids Are All Right
Season after season, it becomes increasingly apparent that the truly revolutionary, stand-out work coming out of either Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York, or in London, Milan or
Paris is from the up-and-coming designers. Consider the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation, which single-handedly introduced the fashion world to such lines as Rodarte, Zac Posen and
Proenza Schouler, or even the Vauxhall Fashion Scout in London. That's why it's so important that the actual tents in New York produce shows like the Academy of Art University showcase,
now in its tenth showing at MBFW. Seven recent graduates from the School of Fashion at the Academy in San Francisco were each chosen to present a six-look capsule collection - and if
you're expecting a dud in the bunch - get ready to be pleasantly surprised.
Spotting the ever so fashionable Patrick McDonald backstage, we had to know - "You're a fashion authority - you go to all the shows - so why the Academy of Art University?" He told us just
what we wanted to hear. "I come to New York Fashion Week in general to see the new, fantastic things and the brilliant new talent. I don't like people that copy and do other people's things.
That's why I come to the Academy of Arts University show because I always catch fresh and new talent."
Holly Smith's 'Double Crested Cormorant' (a water diving bird) inspired collection could've easily been inspired by a Chrysalis - judging from those delicate and expertly executed cocoon
shapes on both the dresses and on the outerwear was a sexy and futuristic opener. There was some expert play on light and shadow in Minha Yoon's silky, fun and voluminous showing.
And surprisingly, chainmail made its way back on the runway after a long hiatus (we don't quite remember seeing chainmail as fabric since Hedi Slimane's last day at Dior). Chainmail
skirts, tops, scarves and even a jacket made their way down Hurst Chang-Wei Lin's first runway show. "I started with alchemy, so I guttered some alchemist images." And as for who he
envisions his customers to be: "Super rich and they don't go out. They just stay inside and walk around." Seriously? Just for saying that alone - we love this guy.
Stephanie Gelot's jacquard knit skirts were outstanding, as were Dejchat Sriyoopum's wool and alpaca pieces. Aura Taylor's leather pieces exuded ooos and aaahs from the crowd, but
no one brought the house down like Jonathan David Baker, whose eye-popping knitwear had people going into verbal convulsions, during the show and after. Who didn't hear at least one
woman after the showcase saying something along the lines of "Those sweaters - OMG - Unbelievable." Because they were. The proportions were exaggerated, and yet, didn't feel
overwrought. The chunkiness of his hand knit fur coats and jackets didn't overpower the models, because there was such obvious, tactile artistry at play, that one couldn't help but just be in
awe of what a true artist is capable of (operative words being hand-knit). You'll hear of Baker again, you can be sure of that.
So if you're the wary type who sticks to only those established designers who rest on their laurels - those "icons" who haven't produced an original idea in the past ten years, then knock
yourself out, but you're missing out. Trust us - the new kids are all right.
Season after season, it becomes increasingly apparent that the truly revolutionary, stand-out work coming out of either Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York, or in London, Milan or
Paris is from the up-and-coming designers. Consider the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation, which single-handedly introduced the fashion world to such lines as Rodarte, Zac Posen and
Proenza Schouler, or even the Vauxhall Fashion Scout in London. That's why it's so important that the actual tents in New York produce shows like the Academy of Art University showcase,
now in its tenth showing at MBFW. Seven recent graduates from the School of Fashion at the Academy in San Francisco were each chosen to present a six-look capsule collection - and if
you're expecting a dud in the bunch - get ready to be pleasantly surprised.
Spotting the ever so fashionable Patrick McDonald backstage, we had to know - "You're a fashion authority - you go to all the shows - so why the Academy of Art University?" He told us just
what we wanted to hear. "I come to New York Fashion Week in general to see the new, fantastic things and the brilliant new talent. I don't like people that copy and do other people's things.
That's why I come to the Academy of Arts University show because I always catch fresh and new talent."
Holly Smith's 'Double Crested Cormorant' (a water diving bird) inspired collection could've easily been inspired by a Chrysalis - judging from those delicate and expertly executed cocoon
shapes on both the dresses and on the outerwear was a sexy and futuristic opener. There was some expert play on light and shadow in Minha Yoon's silky, fun and voluminous showing.
And surprisingly, chainmail made its way back on the runway after a long hiatus (we don't quite remember seeing chainmail as fabric since Hedi Slimane's last day at Dior). Chainmail
skirts, tops, scarves and even a jacket made their way down Hurst Chang-Wei Lin's first runway show. "I started with alchemy, so I guttered some alchemist images." And as for who he
envisions his customers to be: "Super rich and they don't go out. They just stay inside and walk around." Seriously? Just for saying that alone - we love this guy.
Stephanie Gelot's jacquard knit skirts were outstanding, as were Dejchat Sriyoopum's wool and alpaca pieces. Aura Taylor's leather pieces exuded ooos and aaahs from the crowd, but
no one brought the house down like Jonathan David Baker, whose eye-popping knitwear had people going into verbal convulsions, during the show and after. Who didn't hear at least one
woman after the showcase saying something along the lines of "Those sweaters - OMG - Unbelievable." Because they were. The proportions were exaggerated, and yet, didn't feel
overwrought. The chunkiness of his hand knit fur coats and jackets didn't overpower the models, because there was such obvious, tactile artistry at play, that one couldn't help but just be in
awe of what a true artist is capable of (operative words being hand-knit). You'll hear of Baker again, you can be sure of that.
So if you're the wary type who sticks to only those established designers who rest on their laurels - those "icons" who haven't produced an original idea in the past ten years, then knock
yourself out, but you're missing out. Trust us - the new kids are all right.
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By Alexander Patino
POSTED February 12, 2011
Academy of Arts University
Graduate Runway Collection Fall/Winter 2011
Graduate Runway Collection Fall/Winter 2011
