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By Isabella Redmond Styles
POSTED March 8, 2011
Estrella Archs Still Struggles To Find that
'Instant Hit' Her Brand So Desperately Needs
'Instant Hit' Her Brand So Desperately Needs
Estrella Archs’ short-lived and chaotic stint at Emanuel Ungaro, where she produced alongside Lindsay Lohan an eye-searingly tasteless eighties throwback complete with sequin nipple
pasties, was the butt of many fashion jokes for a painfully long time. So, how does Archs, a respected former employee at Prada, Pucci and Hussein Chalayan recover from something like
that? Answer: by producing a fall/winter 2011 collection under her own name, which is right at the other end of the spectrum to what panned at Ungaro. Still, Archs’ fall/winter 2011 doesn’t
say ‘instant hit’ anymore than the ‘I’ve-just-fallen-out-of-a-nightclub’ bodycon that she produced with Li-Lo at Ungaro.
This season, Archs’ models were very sparingly made up and shoeless, a statement maybe, but one that doesn’t make her collection look any more pulled together. The opening eight
all-beige outifits (if that weren’t snoozy enough already) came in unflattering, rudimentary silhouettes. The collection picks up with the introduction of a sugary pink hue - a very brave move
on Archs’ part seeing as it is exactly the same shade that sent distress flares as Ungaro. A fuchsia cape and short sleeve jacket showcased Archs’ considerable design experience and
skill. There was also some interesting use of print, but being only used on two looks, it wasn’t substantial enough to provide refreshment from the beige vs. pink battle that was being
waged.
Whilst the most prevalent silhouettes of the collection were either tailored to within an inch of their lives or so wispy that they got wrapped around the models’ ankles, it proved to be a stark,
jarring contrast. Overall, it’s clear that Archs has put a lot of hard work into the collection, but the severe color palette of pink and beige, the discordant silhouettes and the lack of shoes
made the entire exercise hard work to look at. Perhaps we should hope that this time round Archs is having a laugh at our expense.
pasties, was the butt of many fashion jokes for a painfully long time. So, how does Archs, a respected former employee at Prada, Pucci and Hussein Chalayan recover from something like
that? Answer: by producing a fall/winter 2011 collection under her own name, which is right at the other end of the spectrum to what panned at Ungaro. Still, Archs’ fall/winter 2011 doesn’t
say ‘instant hit’ anymore than the ‘I’ve-just-fallen-out-of-a-nightclub’ bodycon that she produced with Li-Lo at Ungaro.
This season, Archs’ models were very sparingly made up and shoeless, a statement maybe, but one that doesn’t make her collection look any more pulled together. The opening eight
all-beige outifits (if that weren’t snoozy enough already) came in unflattering, rudimentary silhouettes. The collection picks up with the introduction of a sugary pink hue - a very brave move
on Archs’ part seeing as it is exactly the same shade that sent distress flares as Ungaro. A fuchsia cape and short sleeve jacket showcased Archs’ considerable design experience and
skill. There was also some interesting use of print, but being only used on two looks, it wasn’t substantial enough to provide refreshment from the beige vs. pink battle that was being
waged.
Whilst the most prevalent silhouettes of the collection were either tailored to within an inch of their lives or so wispy that they got wrapped around the models’ ankles, it proved to be a stark,
jarring contrast. Overall, it’s clear that Archs has put a lot of hard work into the collection, but the severe color palette of pink and beige, the discordant silhouettes and the lack of shoes
made the entire exercise hard work to look at. Perhaps we should hope that this time round Archs is having a laugh at our expense.
