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By Isabella Redmond Styles
POSTED March 8, 2011
Designer Martin Grant Serves Up A
Coherent Style Story For Fall/Winter 2011
Coherent Style Story For Fall/Winter 2011
Last season, Martin Grant gave us ‘strong color and graphic lines.’ This season, while the graphic lines were still present, the colors had mellowed and the fabric billowed. Case in point
was Grant’s first look, an extraordinarily long empire camel coat which accomplished the not-so-small feat of making model Jade Parfitt look even more statuesque than she is. The silky
claret jumpsuit beneath it promised more in terms of wearability to those without a 6”1 frame.
The rest of the collection was pleasingly wearable, with only a few more lengthy interludes in the form of stately fur collar coats and pleated gowns. Grant obviously carefully considered
color and pattern, the burst of coral from the asymmetrical collar coat was vibrant without being garish. For the most part Grant stuck to traditional silhouettes, enlivening classic shapes
with unusual fabrics or hues. Trench coats were given a fun makeover in camel and pillar-box red patent leather, while the louche elegance of the deep bronze chemise dress and silky
jumpsuit lent the collection a simple 70s elegance. Grant was clearly having a ball experimenting with fabrics - patent leather, wool, silk and fur which gave the collection variety, but left
room for a coherent story.
Grant’s gowns, with their graphic bolts of color and sharp pleats, sure aren’t for the faint hearted but the shapes and color matches used by the designer were perfectly balanced. The
Mongolian lamb jacket worn with a long plisse skirt was a highlight. Many of Grant’s piece might demand an Amazonian figure to pull off, but it is his more practical pieces that really
encapsulate what the label is about- original, unfussy and perfectly elegant.
was Grant’s first look, an extraordinarily long empire camel coat which accomplished the not-so-small feat of making model Jade Parfitt look even more statuesque than she is. The silky
claret jumpsuit beneath it promised more in terms of wearability to those without a 6”1 frame.
The rest of the collection was pleasingly wearable, with only a few more lengthy interludes in the form of stately fur collar coats and pleated gowns. Grant obviously carefully considered
color and pattern, the burst of coral from the asymmetrical collar coat was vibrant without being garish. For the most part Grant stuck to traditional silhouettes, enlivening classic shapes
with unusual fabrics or hues. Trench coats were given a fun makeover in camel and pillar-box red patent leather, while the louche elegance of the deep bronze chemise dress and silky
jumpsuit lent the collection a simple 70s elegance. Grant was clearly having a ball experimenting with fabrics - patent leather, wool, silk and fur which gave the collection variety, but left
room for a coherent story.
Grant’s gowns, with their graphic bolts of color and sharp pleats, sure aren’t for the faint hearted but the shapes and color matches used by the designer were perfectly balanced. The
Mongolian lamb jacket worn with a long plisse skirt was a highlight. Many of Grant’s piece might demand an Amazonian figure to pull off, but it is his more practical pieces that really
encapsulate what the label is about- original, unfussy and perfectly elegant.
